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Dog Behaviors...Dog Barking Part 2 Dog BehaviorsDog Barking Part 2 'Go to Your Spot' Training" It also helps to teach your dog a specific set of behaviors to do when people come into your home so that he has fewer opportunities to alarm bark. Plus, when your dog performs his new behaviors and receives rewards, he'll learn that people coming into his and your space is a good thing. - Before you can train your dog to go to a spot and stay there when a door opens, you'll need to teach him how to sit or lie down and then how to stay. After your dog has learned these skills, you can progress to Step 2. - Identify a place in your home where you'd like your dog to go when people come to the door. If possible, choose a place that's at least eight feet away from the front door but still within sight. It might be a spot at the top of a set of stairs, inside the doorway of an adjacent room, your dog's crate, or a rug positioned at the far corner of an entryway or foyer. - Say 'Go to your spot,' show your dog a treat, and then throw the treat onto the spot where you'd like your dog to go. Repeat this sequence 10 to 20 times. By the 10th time, try pretending to throw the treat so that your dog begins to move toward the spot on his own. As soon as he's standing on his spot or rug, throw him the treat. As your dog catches on, you can stop making the fake throwing motion with your arm and just give him the cue, 'Go to your spot.' Then wait until he does and reward him. - Once your dog is reliably going to his spot, vary where you are when you send him there. Practice asking him to go to his spot from many different angles and distances. For example, say 'Go to your spot' when you're standing a few steps to the left of it. After a few repetitions, move a few steps to the right of the spot and say, 'Go to your spot' from that position. Then move to another area in the room, then another, etc. Eventually, practice standing by the front door and asking your dog to go to his spot, just as you might when visitors arrive. - When your dog masters going to his spot, start asking him to sit or down when he gets there. As soon as your dog's rear end hits the floor on the spot, say Yes!' and reward him with a tasty treat. Then say 'Okay,' and allow him to move off the spot. Repeat these steps at least 10 times per training session. - Now add stay into your exercise. Stand next to your dog's spot. Ask him to sit or lie down, say 'Stay' and wait one second. Then say 'Yes!' or 'Good!' and give him a treat. After you deliver the treat, say 'Okay' to release your dog from the stay and encourage him to get off the spot. Repeat this sequence at least 10 times per training session. Progressively increase from one second to several seconds, but vary the time so that sometimes you make the exercise easy (a shorter stay) and sometimes you make it hard (a longer stay). If your dog starts to get up before you say 'Okay,' say 'Uh-uh!' or 'Oops!' and immediately ask him to sit or lie down on his spot again. Then make the exercise a little easier the next few times by asking your dog to hold the stay for a shorter time. Avoid pushing your dog to progress too fast or testing him to see how long he can hold the stay before getting up. This sets your dog up to fail. You want him to be successful at least 8 out of 10 times in a row. - When your dog can consistently stay on his spot for at least 30 seconds, with you standing in front of him, you can start moving toward the door. Say the cue 'Go to your spot,' walk with your dog to his spot, ask him to sit or lie down and ask him to stay. At first, just turn your head away from your dog. Then turn back to give him a treat and release him from the stay. After a few repetitions, make things a little harder. After your dog is sitting or lying down on his spot, ask him to stay and then take one step toward the door. Return immediately, give your dog a treat and then release him from the stay with your release word or phrase. Gradually increase the number of steps that you take away from your dog and toward the door. Eventually you'll be able to walk all the way to the door and back while your dog stays sitting or lying down on his spot. (Don't forget to keep rewarding him for staying!) If your dog stands up or leaves his spot before you release him from the stay, say 'Oops!' the moment he gets up. Then immediately tell him to sit or lie down on his spot again and stay. Wait a few seconds and then release him. You may have progressed too fast. Next time, make the exercise a little easier so your dog can succeed. Ask him to stay for a shorter period of time and don't move as far away from him. When he's successful at an easier level, you can gradually make the exercise harder again. Never end your dog's stay from a distance. Instead, always return to him, say 'Yes,' give him a treat, and then say 'Okay' to release him. - When your dog can consistently stay in a sit or a down on his spot for 30 seconds, while you turn away and walk to your front door, you can start to introduce some distractions. Tell your dog to stay, and then do something distracting. At first make your distractions mild. For example, start by bending down or doing a single jumping jack. Over many sessions of training, gradually intensify your distractions to things like running a few steps or tossing a treat on the floor. Reward your dog quickly after each distraction for holding the stay. If he breaks the stay, quickly say 'Uh-uh,' ask him to sit or lie down on his spot, and try again. When your dog can stay while you do all sorts of distracting things, ask him to stay while you go to the front door of your home and pretend to greet someone there. Your goal is for him to learn to stay the entire time you're at the door. - The next step in 'Go to Your Spot' training is to recruit friends and family to help you conduct mock practice visits. Arrange to have someone come to the door. You will work with your dog to help him stay on his own. Be prepared! This will probably take a long time the first few visits. When you open the door, one of two things can happen. Sometimes you leave your dog there on his spot while you talk to the person at the door, as if your visitor is a courier or delivery person. Your dog never gets to say hello. (However, you, the person or both of you should frequently toss treats to your dog to reward him for staying.) At other times, invite the visitor in. Wait until the person sits down somewhere, and then release your dog to join you and your guest. When you have a friend help you with a mock visit, be sure to repeat the scenario over and over, at least 10 to 20 times. Practice makes perfect! Have the person come in for 5 to 10 minutes or just pretend to deliver something, then leave for 5 to 10 minutes, then return for a second visit, and so on. Your dog should experience at least 10 visits in a row with the same person. With each repetition, it will become easier for him to do what you expect because he'll be less excited by the whole routine-especially when it's the same person at the door, over and over again. - Continue to recruit people to help you practice 'Go to Your Spot' exercises until your dog reliably goes to his spot and stays there until you release him by saying 'Okay.' At this point, your dog should be able to perform his new 'Go to Your Spot' skill perfectly about 90 percent of the time during training sessions. The hardest part for your dog will be going to his spot and staying there in real-life situations, when he hasn't been able to do a few warm-up repetitions. To prepare your dog for times when real visitors arrive, ask friends who already know your dog well to drop by randomly when you'll be home. Then ask friends who don't know your dog well to drop by. With plenty of practice, your dog will be able to go to his spot and stay there, even when neither of you knows who's at the door! - Eventually, when real visitors come to your home, you can ask your dog to go to his spot as soon as they knock or ring the doorbell. After letting your guests in, ask them to sit down. Wait about one minute before releasing your dog from his spot to greet them. Put your dog on a leash if you think he might jump on your guests or behave aggressively. After a minute or two of allowing your dog to greet people, ask him to lie down at your feet and stay. Give him something to keep him busy, such as a rawhide or a KONG® toy stuffed with something really tasty, like low-fat cream cheese, Cheez Whiz® or low-fat peanut butter, frozen banana and cottage cheese, or canned dog food and kibble. After your dog finishes with the rawhide or the KONG, he'll probably go to sleep. If you repeat the ritual above for a while, your dog should learn to settle down calmly when guests visit your home. If you need help teaching your dog these skills, don't hesitate to enlist the help of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer or a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist in your area. A professional trainer can meet with you one-on-one to guide you through the process of teaching your dog to sit, stay and go to a spot on command." Greeting Barking If your dog barks at people coming to the door, at people or dogs walking by your property, at people or dogs he sees on walks, and at people or dogs he sees through the fence, and his barking is accompanied by whining, tail wagging and other signs of friendliness, your dog is probably barking to say hello. He most likely barks the same way when family members come home. - Keep greetings low key. Teach your dog to sit and stay when meeting people at the door so that he has something to do instead of barking. This will reduce his excitement level. First teach him to sit and stay when there aren't any people at the door so that he knows the behavior well before you ask him to do it with the distraction and excitement of real visitors arriving. - If your dog likes toys, keep a favorite toy near the front door and encourage him to pick up the toy before he greets you or guests. If he learns to hold a toy in his mouth, he'll be less inclined to bark. (He'll probably still whine, however.) - On walks, teach your dog that he can walk calmly past people and dogs without meeting them. To do this, distract your dog with special treats, like chicken, cheese or hot dogs, before he begins to bark. (Soft, very tasty treats work best.) Show your dog the treats by holding them in front of his nose, and encourage him to nibble at them while he's walking past a person or dog who would normally cause him to bark. Some dogs do best if you ask them to sit as people or dogs pass. Other dogs prefer to keep moving. Make sure you praise and reward your dog with treats anytime he chooses not to bark. - It may help to have your dog wear a head halter at times when he's likely to bark (for example, on walks or in your house). A halter can have a distracting or calming effect and make your dog less likely to bark. Make sure you reward him for not barking. (Important note: For safety reasons, only let your dog wear the halter when you can supervise him). This information courtesy of: ASPCA 424 East 92nd St. New York, NY 10128-6804 Information from ASPCA see Dog Barking Part 1 - Dog Barking Part 3 - Dog Barking Part 4 outside links ASPCA From Wikipedia: The social unit of dogs is the pack. From research on wolf packs that are formed in captivity, the pack has traditionally been thought of as a tightly knit group composed of individuals that have earned a ranking in a linear hierarchy, and within which there is intense loyalty. It is believed that dogs were able to be domesticated by and succeed in contact with human society because of their social nature. According to this traditional belief, dogs generalize their social instincts to include humans, in essence "joining the pack" of their owner/handler. However, much of this traditional view is based on findings from grey wolf packs that are formed of unrelated animals in captivity, and thus may not apply to natural wolf packs, natural dog packs, or dogs incorporated into a human household. Research in packs formed in the wild indicates that wolves form a family group, including a breeding pair and their offspring. In these familial packs, the terms "dominance," and "submission" are less useful than "parent," and "offspring," and bring with them a number of misconceptions. While the majority of research to date indicates that domestic dogs conform to a hierarchy around an Alpha-Beta-Omega structure, domestic dogs, like their wild wolf counterparts, also interact in complex hierarchical ways. A happy and healthy pet contributes to your own health and happiness. The articles here are constructed to help aide you in making informative decisions concerning your puppy and dog and your family. The intentions of these articles are to help give you choices on how to find your puppy, topics of discussions with family members before the decision to get a dog is set in stone, how to prepare your home for him, how to care for him throughout his life and how to spend quality, enjoyable time with him. Any medical advice or health information should never take the place of your veterinarian. If your dog is not feeling well or there is something wrong, don’t wait! Make a doctor’s appointment with your veterinarian as soon as possible. We welcome any suggestions to our articles. Our contributors are working hard to bring you the most up-to-date quality information. Dog Barking Behaviors Excessive Barking Problem Barking Dogs Part 2 Dog Behaviors Dog Barking Part 2 Dog related information, articles and descriptive, educational videosincluding related dog barking behaviors excessive barking problem barking dogs part 2 videos when possible

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